The right bra model for every kind of breast

21 Aug 2020 3:29 PM
Annica Svensson

Wonderful breasts of all shapes and sizes – wide or slender, long or short, full or less full, shallow or projected, close or side set. When we talk about bra fit, there is great focus on cup and band size, but did you know that the shape and placement of the breasts also affect the fit? Here are our suggestions on how to choose the right bra model to fit your breasts.

Every breast is unique. Breasts come in all shapes and sizes, and nothing is more natural. They change appearance many times throughout life: after pregnancies, breastfeeding, weight changes and age. Whatever their shape and size, your breasts are perfect just the way they are. For a bra to fit well and comfortably, you need to find the right combination of cup and band size, but there are also other things that affect fit and comfort. Here are our top suggestions.

Side set breasts

If your breasts are set very far to the sides, they can leave empty space in the cups between the breasts. You could try a bra with side support that centres the bust and gathers it towards the middle.

Our suggestions: LOVELY LACE non-wired or AMSTERDAM underwired.

Close-set breasts

If your breasts are close set, a high underwire can sometimes be uncomfortable and force the breasts apart. So, you could go for a non-wired bra or a bra with a lower underwire at the front.

Our suggestion: LACE VISION.

Slender very close-set breasts

If you have a very narrow breast base with close-set breasts and quite a long distance to the armpit, there can often be space at the side of the cup, especially if you wear an underwired bra. But there is a smart solution. Choose a bra with a cup that fits the bust well but with a band size that is too small. Then extend the band at the back with a bra extender attached to the hook and eye fastening. This way you lengthen the bra band at the back and side, but the cups will fit the same over the breasts. Bear in mind, however, that the shoulder straps will end up further apart on the back when using a bra extender, so choose a bra on which you can hook the shoulder straps together on the back or one with a no-slip function.

Breasts pointing east and west

For breasts pointing outwards towards the sides, a bra with side support is excellent as it will help to centre the bust and prevent it from flowing out towards the armpits. The side support will reinforce the outer sides of the cup, often with the help of padding.

Our suggestions: LOVELY LACE underwired or SUMMER non-wired.

Breasts pointing south

Breasts that point downwards may need a little extra lift. If you need help with gravity, we recommend a bra with an extra lift panel in the under cup that will encourage the bust upwards.

Our suggestions: QUEEN non-wired.

Breasts pointing north

Choose a bra with a full cup and high cut along the décolletage. A lower cut cup can cause the nipple to protrude above the edge of the cup. Don’t choose unlined lace on the upper cup if you don’t want the bra to feel transparent.

Our suggestion: CURLY non-wired.

Breasts pointing in different directions

Choose an underwired bra, preferably with side support, as this will shape, support and centre the bust.

Our suggestions: AMSTERDAM or FLAMES .

Asymmetric breasts

A bra with a padded cup will hide any empty space in the cup. If you have a small size difference, an elastic cup or elastic upper cup is excellent. The elasticity will offer some size flexibility. Read more suggestions here on how to find a bra for asymmetric breasts.

Our suggestions: JOY , SHIMMER FROST or STAR.

Bell-shaped breasts

Choose a sturdy bra with an underwire and padded cup that lifts and supports from below. If you don’t want a padded cup, choose one with elastic material in the upper cup that can adapt to the bust. An unpadded cup in firm material can lead to creases if the bust doesn’t fill it fully at the top.

Our suggestions: MEADOW DREAMS,

Round, evenly full breasts

If you have this kind of breasts, most bra types will fit. If you want to maintain your round bust shape, you can choose a bra with a moulded round cup.

Our suggestions: SMOOTH LACY or STAY FRESH.

Spread out, shallow breasts

Breasts that are spread out and shallow can have the same measurements and size as breasts that are slender and projected. But, if you have spread out, shallow breasts, you need a cup with a rounder fit. Avoid pointed cups in firm material as you risk not filling the middle. A minimiser bra is a good choice as it has a spread out, shallower cup.

Our suggestions: SMOOTHLY or STAY FRESH.

Relaxed, long slender breasts

If you have a very relaxed breast shape, it can be nice to give the breasts a lift as this will make you less warm and uncomfortable under the bust. A bra with an underwire and firm material in the cup is a good choice as it will provide extra lift and support.

Our suggestions: SMOOTH LACY, ROSE or SUMMER. If you don’t want to wear an underwired bra, we recommend COTTON DOTS or QUEEN, which are non-wired but provide excellent lift.

Relaxed heavy breasts

Make sure you wear a big enough cup size so the breasts don’t ‘flow out’ over the edge of the cup or are pushed out to the armpit. The cup should cover the whole breast and not press into the tissue anywhere. One of the most common ‘mistakes’ that women with big busts make is to choose a cup size that is too small. If double breasts form or the bust falls out when you bend over, the cup is too small. Choose a bra with a wide back, underwire and preferably wide, padded shoulder straps. The underwire will lift and support the bust by distributing the weight of the bust to the other parts of the bra. A model that also has firm material in the cup is a good choice.

Our suggestions: AMSTERDAM non-wired or COTTON DOTS non-wired. If you prefer an underwire, we recommend QUEEN underwired.

Big full bust

If you have a full, projected bust and the bra doesn’t fit well, it is usually because you are wearing a cup that is too shallow. If you wear a bra with an underwire, it should separate the breasts and lie tightly against the sternum between the breasts, not ‘float on top’ of the bust. Go up in cup size to avoid a ‘uniboob’ effect. If you want to keep your natural profile, avoid a minimiser bra as these flatten the bust.

Our suggestions: HAPPY DAYS underwired or HAPPY DAYS non-wired.

One breast missing

If you are missing a physical breast but want to support the other, you can wear a prosthetic bra with a pocket sewn onto the inside of the cups for prosthetic inserts. Our suggestion: Prosthetic bra.

Both breasts missing

If for whatever reason you are missing both breasts but want to use, for example, a prosthesis, and therefore need to wear a bra, we recommend a prosthetic bra with pockets in the cups for the inserts. Sewing your own pockets into a regular bra will not give the same result as using a proper prosthetic bra made to handle the weight of a loose breast prosthesis.

Our bra suggestion: Prosthesis bra.

Breasts with a lot of loose skin

For very loose skin, choose a bra with a full cup and a reinforced cup edge at the top. A full cup has a higher cut that catches the whole bust so the edge of the cup doesn’t cut into the skin uncomfortably. Remember not to choose a cup that is too small. Most of our non-wired bras have en extra high cut cup.


Bust that sweats a lot

If you sweat a lot, a bra can make you feel warm, especially if it is padded. But there are options that mean that you don’t have to go without a bra. The solution is functional material that can absorb moisture without feeling wet. Read more in our article here –Help my bra gets too hot.

Our suggestions: KEEP FRESH or STAY FRESH

Protruding nipples

Some women have protruding nipples that are discernible through clothes even when they wear a bra. If you want to guarantee that your nipples don’t make themselves known even when it‘s cold, wear padded cups or adhesive silicon nipple covers that you put over the nipples.

Our suggestions: NIPPLE COVERS

Narrow or sloping shoulders

Go for shoulder straps that are close set, so-called no-slip shoulder straps, or multiway shoulder straps that allow the bra to be crossed or hooked together on the back. If you have a short upper body or your breasts are placed high up and you need to shorten the shoulder straps more than they allow, choose a bra on which you can hook the shoulder straps together on the back.

Our suggestions: AMSTERDAM or FLAMES.

It is important to wear a bra you feel comfortable in. If you’re unsure which type of bra will suit your bust best, contact our customer service, which will be happy to answer your questions. You can contact us via Facebook, Instagram, email or phone.

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